Our new T@B 400 will be resting at a storage facility for the winter. This is a first for us because our T@G was always in our relatively warm basement. So, we will use this post as a camper storage checklist each year as we retire our camper for the winter.
Storage Checklist
1. Winterize the Fresh Water System
It is most important to ensure the camper’s fresh water system is adequately prepared for storage. If you reside in a climate that does not go below freezing, you can just drain all the water from the camper. If, however, temperatures will go below freezing, then additional steps are necessary. Additionally, we have a separate post for how we prepared our camper for freezing temperatures, Winterized our Camper Water System .
2. Have a Plan for Keeping the Battery Charged
Secondly, it is important to keep the battery charged. A charged battery can withstand sub-zero temperatures, but a drained one can be destroyed in temperatures below freezing. Therefore, it is important to keep a good charge on the battery. There several ways to address this: removal of the battery, providing a trickle charge, keeping it on shore power, or periodic charging of the battery.
Because we are storing our camper close to home, we will do periodic charging of the battery. We will store it with the battery kill switch off because it ensures there is nothing to draw energy. So, I have put reminders on my calendar to check the camper and battery every couple of weeks.
Periodic Power Monitoring
a) First, turn on the power at the battery kill switch and check the power level of the battery at the information panel.
b) If it needs a charge, connect to shore power to bring it up to a fully-charged level. Note: the power at the battery kill switch must be on to charge the battery.
c) When the battery has a full charge, disconnect the power and turn the battery kill switch back to off.
Note: when the camper is taken to storage, the battery should be fully charged.
Kill Switch is On
3. Remove All Food From the Camper
It is very important to remove food from the camper because it attracts insects and wildlife. Also, be sure to remove all canned and bottled items because they could freeze and burst. Ensure that the microwave and stove are clean so there is not anything that would produce food odors.
4. Clean the Camper
Wash the exterior and clean all the inside surfaces. Vacuum the floor and remove any stains with soapy water. If the floor is damp from cleaning, leave the windows open to allow ventilation while it dries.
5. Remove linens and all fabrics
We removed all sheets, blankets, pillows, towels, etc. We also removed our cushions and mattresses because we have read that they can sometimes be ruined by wildlife. This may be overkill, but we don’t want to take any chances of them getting damaged.
We have a visor that we will also need to spray with Kiwi Camp Dry to have it ready to repel water and make it easier to clean in our next season of camping.
5. Turn off Everything
a) Turn off the refrigerator by turning the setting to zero. Leave the refrigerator door open and put an open box of baking soda inside.
b). Make sure all lights, Alde System, range burners, television, and DVD player are off. Also, ensure that both fan switches are off.
c) Turn off the propane at the valve.
d) Turn off all power to Camper by turning the kill switch to off. (Battery image on top of switch appears upside down.)
Kill switch is off
6. Final Steps
a) Ensure that the Camper is stored in a level position and stabilizers are down.
b) Close and lock all windows. Also, close all of the shades.
c) Place the cover over the air conditioner vent.
e) Place rodent repellent in camper. We chose the one (see link next) below based on a recommendation on a Facebook group.
Rodent repellent
f) Place a moisture absorber in the camper because it will help to prevent corrosion, mold, and mildew. The product below was in stock at our local Walmart (link) in the RV section.
Moisture absorber
g) Vent the Fantastic Fan 1/4” because nüCamp recommends it in the Manual.
h) Remove trailer hitch from SUV and place in storage unit.
i) Close and lock storage unit.
Camper Storage is done!
Our Storage Environment
Our camper will be in an unheated storage unit, so we will not have to consider any type of cover for it. But, if it were outside and subject to UV rays and the elements, we would need a cover. However, it is my understanding that one should be aware of extra moisture it may cause in some climates.
I had a lot of angst about getting our camper installed in the very tight space we have, but my husband got it in with the first try. I was so impressed!
Very little room to spare
So, we have tucked our new baby away for the winter and are at home planning our next adventures.
We winterized our camper just a couple of days after we purchased it because the local temperature was dipping into the twenties. This resulted in scrambling to read manuals and watch YouTube videos. The camper was taken on its maiden trip a few days after. Having now winterized the camper twice, once when we first brought it home and again when we returned from a nine day trip, we feel we have a handle on it.
We are by no means experts in camper winterization, but believe our process will be adequate to protect it. We hope this post will be helpful to others new to this process.
Winterization Preparation
We purchased RV antifreeze and a suction tube that attaches to the water pump at our local RV dealer. The combo of hose and gallon of antifreeze was $12.99. There’s also a kit on Amazon that includes the tube plus a few items we did not use.
For our method, we only used one gallon of RV antifreeze, the kind that is non-toxic. It is very important to only use RV antifreeze because you are dealing with your water system.
We turned off our Alde heating system before beginning the process. We previously dumped our gray and black tanks at the campground. As we had fresh water in our holding tank, I ran a good bit of water into the sink and flushed the toilet several times to run fresh water through the tanks. If connected to city water, you would want to disconnect after running some fresh water through the system.
Draining the System
Before draining, be sure that your camper is level from front to back and also right to left to ensure that everything drains properly.
1. Drain the fresh water tank.
The valve is located behind the wheel on the driver’s side. It holds 30 gallons, so be sure to allow plenty of time for it to drain. It drains best when the camper is level.
Fresh Water Tank Valve
2. Flush Water Lines:
After the fresh water tank is completely drained, turn on the water pump and open each hot and cold water faucet. Close each faucet when water stops. Next, flush the toilet till no water flows.
3. Low Point and Water Heater Drains:
Open the two low point drains and the hot water heater drains. They can be accessed through the rear compartment on the driver’s side. The drains are located where the green circles are below.
Access area for drains
The low point drains are perpendicular when closed and parallel when open. They are open in the photo below.
Low point drains are open
The water heater drains are pointing up when open and are pointing forward when closed. The Alde 3020 Manual recommends having all water taps open to drain the hot water tank. It also recommends leaving the valves open during winterization. Below is the page from the manual.
Alde drain information
Hot water drains are open
Allow all the water to flow out of the low point and water heater drains, then close them. When closed, they should look like the photo below.
Closed low point drains
4. Drain the Holding Tanks:
I am assuming that the tanks were drained after the last camping trip, so you will only be draining the little bit of freshwater that was in the water lines.
Black and gray valves are opened and drained
5. Bypass the Hot Water Heater
Change the Bypass valve for the hot water system from “Normal” to “Bypass”. We do this to prevent antifreeze from getting into the hot water system. It should remain in this position until the camper is dewinterized and ready to be used again.
Bypass valve set to bypass
6. Add the Antifreeze:
Turn on the pump for a couple of minutes because you want to get any water that might remain out and turn on a faucet to release it.
You are now ready to pump antifreeze into the water system using the pump, which is accessible through the wardrobe inside the camper.
Water pump access point
Below is a photo of what we attached to the pump. We removed the waterline that was going into the pump and attached the black 1/2” fitting below. We then inserted the tubing into the antifreeze container.
Tubing and connector for water pump
Below is a photo of how it looked while attached.
Attached Pump device
Next, we ran the pump, which sucked the antifreeze into the water system. While the pump was running, we turned on each faucet until we saw pink antifreeze coming out of it. This included both hot and cold faucets in both sinks and the shower. We also did this for the toilet and for the hot and cold faucets for the outside shower.
Antifreeze has flowed into the sink
We used about 3/4 of a gallon of antifreeze through the pump. Next, we poured the remaining amount into the 2 sinks, shower floor, and toilet.
Winterized Our Camper:
We have now winterized our camper water system! I will be following up later with a post on how we dewinterize to get ready to go camping.
Alternate Methods:
1) Antifreeze into Fresh Water Tank
I have read that if you do not want to pump antifreeze directly into your system, you can use the fresh water system instead. First, drain all possible water and then add approximately 3 gallons antifreeze directly into the fresh water tank. Next, turn on the pump and open all faucets until the pink antifreeze is coming through. You would also pour antifreeze into the drains (#7 above).
2) Blowout Method:
This process requires the following:
A a special adapter to attach to the city water inlet.
A regulated air compressor to blow the water out of the system. The PSI should be set to no more than 30 PSI.
Air valve for blowout method
We recently used this method for a few freezing nights before going camping.
All the drainage steps (1-5) above would be used, except the drains and faucets would be left open for the blowout process. They would then be closed and a total of approximately one gallon of antifreeze poured down the sink and shower drains and toilet. There are also instructions on the web and YouTube for this method.
Winterized Our Camper Conclusion
The steps above are just to prepare the water system for winter. I have reviewed the manual and know there are other things we must do before we can put our camper safely away for winter.
We never winterized our T@G camper because it slept in our basement when not on the road. I was pretty comfortable with how to manage camping in our T@G and all that it entails. Now, there is a new, more complicated camper to understand. How we winterized our camper has been added to our Camping Resources for New Teardrop Campers.
Looking forward to warmer weather and new camping adventures!
Replacing our tiny camper was difficult for me. I had bonded with it and it was my baby! It was everything we expected it to be and served us well for two years and over 10,000 miles. We bought it at a time when we did not know if we would even like camping and it enabled us to travel for very little money to exciting, far away places. Teardrop Camping, The Decision to Buy a Teardrop.
Why Make a Change
While there are so many reasons to love the nüCamp T@G, it does have some limitations. I originally thought that the biggest challenges would be the lack of a bathroom and that it would be uncomfortable for my tall husband. We adapted pretty well without the bathroom and my husband was good with the camper most of the time because the bed was easy to access and quite comfortable. He was too tall to stand comfortably in the galley though. It would be a bigger issue, but he doesn’t do a lot of cooking.
The major reason we opted for a larger camper was to have a place to be comfortable when the weather was not good for being outside. We have camped in the rain and in extreme heat and cold. Our solution to this has always been to leave and go do something where we can be inside. Camping and Execution of the Rainy Day Plan. It beats staying in bed all day or freezing/roasting outside, but we were at a place where we would like to have more options.
Lastly, my husband has been considering replacing our tiny camper for awhile. He has enjoyed our trips, but has been lobbying for something bigger for many months.
The Replacement Camper
We thoroughly researched similar campers that were approximately twenty feet long. A quality camper with a place to be comfortable inside that also had a bathroom was the overall goal. We required at least a queen-sized bed and a separate area to relax. The brands we considered were: nüCamp, Little Guy, Alto, Airstream, Oliver, Lance, Forest River, Jayco, and Lil Snoozy. Weight, space utilization, nearness of a service location, perceived value and quality, known quality issues, comfort, value, and eye appeal were all factors in our decision.
I have to admit we were biased in favor of nüCamp. Our T@G was an incredible camper and nüCamp did a great job of customer service for us. Replacing our tiny camper with another nüCamp product seemed a safer decision. Also, we attended a rally at their Sugarcreek facility this year and were very impressed with the company and its operations.
However, if we had found another camper that met out criteria that was better suited our needs, we would have bought it instead. Some of the camper brands we have seen in person and all were researched to some extent online. My husband and I spent many hours considering specifications, options, and how we would expect to use this larger camper. In the end, we came back to the nüCamp 400.
The Search for a 400
Our desire was to buy in our home state of Alabama if possible. We were already aware of Bankston Motor Homes from its servicing of our T@G and were impressed by their performance. Bankston has multiple nearby locations and we were happy to see they had several 400s, including one Boondock Lite (BL). https://www.bankstonmotorhomes.com/
We also looked for 400s within a five hundred mile radius of our home because we had color and option preferences. It was surprising to learn that of the more than ten dealers, only a few 400s were in stock and only one of the other dealers had a Boondock Lite.
The 400s come very well-equipped with only a few options and Bankston’s 400 BL colors and options were acceptable to us, so we began the purchase process right away. David Tyler was our salesperson and we really liked working with him. He transferred the unit to the Albertville location the next day and we went to check it out. It was lovely and we told him we would take it.
nüCamp T@B 400
There were three superficial issues that we asked them to correct prior to purchase. There was a tiny crack in the casing for the porch light, a small scratch on the lower molding of one side, and a small section of the Formica has become unglued. David assured us they would correct those items.
Upgrade Considerations
We always stored our T@G in our garage and it weighs in at just over 1,000 pounds. No electric brakes were needed and we had surplus towing capacity in our Acura MDX. However, the much larger nüCamp 400 weighs 2,690 and its GVWR is 3,500 pounds. Most noteworthy, it would not fit in our garage. Replacing our tiny camper would not be easy and we would not be able to camp so inexpensively in the new one.
Towing Capacity
Our Acura’s towing capacity had been increased to 5,000 pounds with the installation of a transmission cooling unit. The Acura’s tongue weight capacity of 500 pounds is within the 400’s tongue weight of 460 pounds, but it did not leave much surplus. We hoped it would be adequate for the new camper.
Storage Requirements
The requirement for storage was perhaps the main reason we have held back on replacing our tiny camper. It was always in our basement with easy access and no extra cost. We really hated to give up storing our camper on our property, but the 400 would not fit into our garage and we could not store it outside.
So, we began searching for storage options. We were lucky to find an indoor storage unit near our home. It is just under 20 feet deep and the door is just under 10 feet tall. Our T@B 400 BL is 18 feet long and just under 9 feet tall, so it is a fit for the unit—but just barely. It is very tricky backing it into the space, but my husband did a great job in our trial run.
Additionally, the space does not have climate control and we will have to winterize the camper. Another thing we will have to learn how to do.
The space brings with it a monthly cost of $150 and an annual cost of $1,800.
Storage Unit
Electric Brakes
Unlike out T@G, the new 400 has electric brakes, which is a legal retirement for trailers of its weight. This required us to get a brake controller for our car. We did not want to have to modify our dash and impact the wiring on our vehicle, so we opted for the Tekonsha 90250 Prodigy RF Electronic Brake Controller.
Sway and Weight Distribution
Because we do not have a lot of surplus tow capacity in our tow vehicle, we wanted something to address sway and weight distribution. We opted for the Blue Ox Sway Pro 750. It is a weight distributing hitch that provides sway control and one other nice feature. It allows backing up without adjustment, which is not available with many other manufacturers.
Blue Ox Sway Pro 750
Insurance
We were careful to add the 400 to our insurance before we took it on the road because it was a sizable purchase. State Farm insures our camper and because of the higher cost of the camper, our camper insurance cost moved from $200 to $417 (with a $ 1,000 deductible).
Decreased Gas Mileage
We were able to tow our T@G and get an average of 18 miles per gallon. There has not been a chance to check the gas mileage on the new unit, but we expect it to be around 12-13 miles per gallon. If this is the case, we will have to spend approximately 50% more for gasoline. This increase can be pretty significant on long trips.
Fixed Annual Cost Summary
Accountant that I am, it was necessary for me to consider all the financial ramifications of replacing our tiny camper. Beyond the purchase, we will incur approximately $2,000 per year in storage and additional insurance, plus 50% higher gasoline costs. Is it worth it? At this point in our life, we think it is.
Replacing Our Tiny Camper
It all happened rather quickly and we were ready to pick up our new baby. David Tyler and Bankston RV were amazing and we are very happy with our new camper. Some of the service team even came in on a Saturday for us. I can’t say enough nice things about them.
Our New Camper at Bankston RV with David Tyler
With the T@B 400, we are gaining the sitting/eating/sleeping area below. This space, plus the indoor kitchen for when the weather is bad, was our main motivation for replacing our tiny camper. The area has three setup options . Below it is set as a seating area, but rearrangement of the pillows allows it be used as an extra bed. Lastly, if the center cushion is removed, the table can be lifted to create a table with seating on two sides.
Seating and Eating Area
This lovely indoor kitchen is a definite perk. It will be wonderful on those cold mornings.
Indoor Kitchen
There is also the benefit of having this tiny bathroom. No more middle of the night hikes to campground bathhouses. We expect this to be a convenience we will really appreciate.
Wet Bath
However, the new bed is slightly smaller than a queen and only accessible from one side. The T@G has a king-sized bed with a door on each side. I am afraid we are going to sorely miss our old bed. Also, for the record, the bed is a bear to make!
Queen Bed (almost)
We are happy overall with the T@B 400 amenities. Replacing our tiny camper is completed and we are excited about taking this new teardrop to far away places!
A Final Change
On our ride home with the new camper, all went well, but my husband said that the front end of the car felt light to him and the steering wheel was too easy to turn. This concerned us! We should have been under the 500 lb tongue weight, but the new weight distribution sway bar hitch was quite heavy. It turns out that it weighed 47 pounds, which was 7 lbs over our car’s tongue weight limit. I worried that this would damage the car over time.
We were prepared to replace our tow vehicle if needed and that is what we did. So, we now have a giant SUV that can pull 9,000 pounds with lots of tongue weight to spare. It should be great for camping, but sure will be big for me to park. Intimidating!
So, replacing our tiny camper led to replacing our tow vehicle as well and we have much to learn about both with a camping trip fast approaching.
We are excited to have our teardrop and some of the modifications we have made to it included in Cool Tears Magazine. Cool Tears is a free online magazine devoted to teardrop campers and their interests. A new issue is available each month.
The article came from portions of our most recent post. It covered the modifications that we made during our second year as T@G owners. The article, “After You Buy: 5 Simple Modifications for a T@G”, is in the November 2018 issue of the magazine.
Our Modifications
Firstly, much of the inspiration for our modifications came from other T@G owners that we follow on multiple Facebook groups. There are so many creative people in those groups. They have great ideas and freely share them. Second, the changes we made came down to our individual needs and the ways that we could add convenience to our camper. The T@G is an amazing camper that has extraordinary amenities just as it comes off the assembly line. However, there are always opportunities to make whatever camper you own more suited to your specific camping lifestyle.
My husband made all these enhancements happen for us. He is always willing to use his considerable skills to improve our camping experiences. I am truly blessed to have a husband so talented and accommodating.
In conclusion, we love our T@G and have enjoyed the modifications made this year. They have certainly enhanced our camping trips. We hope you will check out the article in a Cool Tears.
Our second year of camping has gone by so quickly. Our teardrop is a NuCamp 2017 T@G MAX XL and it has served us so well! This post is a summary of the miles we have traveled in the past year and the teardrop modification we have made.
Second Year Camping Trips
We only took six camping trips this past year, which does not sound like a lot for a retired couple. However, two were monthlong trips and one included three stops. We hauled our teardrop 10,451 miles—three times the miles traveled in our first year. We revisited three nearby states, but also camped in thirteen new states. Our hope is to eventually camp in every state.
The trips included 36 different campgrounds and 75 nights away from home. We were inexperienced newbies when we began camping two years ago. Now, I think of us as seasoned campers.
Below are links to the plans for our two monthlong trips. Our first one was out west during the winter and the second was a summer trip north. Those trips were so amazing!
Our camper is so well designed that we have not needed much in the way of teardrop modification. Our mods were really just minor changes to increase comfort and functionality of the camper.
Heater Stand
This may not technically be considered a modification because everything is removable. We needed a heater for our winter trip out west; so we purchased a Honeywell HCE 100B Heat Bud Ceramic Heater. It has tip over protection, but we soon realized that we would need a stable surface for it to operate. A Facebook user had posted photos of a stand for a heater and my husband built one that was similar. The stand has proven to work very well.
Heater on Stand
The holes on the back panel enable the stand to rest very securely upon the door handles. There is a hole in the bottom panel for the cord to flow through to the electrical outlet. Lastly, there are two piano hinge to allow the stand to lay flat for easier storage in the cabinet when unused.
Heater stand
An added bonus, the stand works great for holding tablets that are being charged when there is no need for a heater.
Under Camper Storage Container
We needed a place to store my husband’s shoes and the inspiration for this teardrop modification came from another post on a Facebook group. It required drilling holes below the bed and mounting a track in which a plastic box can slide.
Under Camper Storage
This has worked well for the shoes. We store the bin in the cabin when we travel. We were concerned that we might forget to remove it when the camper is being pulled, but so far, so good.
Mesh Net Door Storage
We like to watch TV or DVDs before sleeping and I am the keeper of remotes. Before we did this teardrop modification, I was often searching for them. We have seen that other T@G owners have made this mod and at the rally in Ohio, we learned NüCamp is now installing mesh storage on the doors of new units. I love this mod!
Double Sided Velcro Strips
We used Velcro, but noticed the factory was using screws to attach the mesh pockets.
Mesh Storage on Door
When the door is closed, the storage pocket is just above the bed. We installed these on both sides.
Storage on Door
Storage Behind Television
This is another modification that many owners have made that is also included at the factory on new models. It involved removing the panel and putting hinges on the door. My husband finished the inside with particle board for ventilation purposes.
Storage Behind TV
Handle installed to open door
Finished modification
Window Rail Brushes
We learned that nüCamp will provide rail brushes for the windows to prevent bugs from coming in. You have to install them, but it is not difficult. We obtained them at no charge from the parts department.
The photo below shows the side of the window without the rail brushes.
Window Rail Before Installation
The rail brushes installed below should be effective in keeping out insects.
Window Rail with Installed Brush
Conclusion
Our T&G has been wonderful this last year! The modifications we made primarily added a little more storage in key areas and we are happy with them.
In this next year, we are considering getting a bigger camper. The nüCamp 400 will likely be the replacement. However, it is hard for me to imagine loving any other camper as much as Endeavor.
Our reasons are simple. We now know how much we love to travel and are willing to take it to a higher level to have something that provides comfortable daytime space inside.
We are brand new to solar panels and I must say, we do not have them totally figured out yet. I am an “instructions gal” and usually can make sense of things by reading the instructions. However, in the case of solar panels, much of it may as well be in a foreign language.
I would love to read a post entitled “Solar Panels for Dummies”, but have not yet seen one for camper batteries. So I am trying to learn enough to provide some basic language on the subject.
Why Solar Panels
It seems that most of the National Parks sites do not have electrical hookups. Also, I am aware there are great places out west to boondock. While we would love the camp in some of those places, we do like a few of the comforts that electricity provides.
We considered a generator, but they are not allowed at some campgrounds and the idea of hauling one around plus the fuel was not very appealing. They can also be noisy. We may eventually purchase a generator, but I want to fully understand solar first to see if it can meet our needs.
Our Equipment
A little background first: we have a T@G MAX XL teardrop with the Norcold cooler. (From reading posts on Facebook groups, I learned that the cooler really draws the amps.) We knew that the Norcold could be an issue, but wanted to see firsthand how it would work. So, we treated this first use as a learning experiment.
Some Basic Information
Amp Hour (Ah)
An Ampere (Amp) is a measure of the amount of energy stored in a battery.
A battery with a capacity of one amp could supply a current of one amp for one hour or two amps for 1/2 hour or 1/3 amp for three hours before becoming fully discharged.
A battery with 100 Ah would produce 5 amps over 20 hours, but if discharged at a high rate like 50 amps in an hour, it would only last one hour because of the high rate of discharge.
Converting Watts to Amps/Amps to Watts
Watts = Amps x Voltage (12 If a 12 Volt Battery)
Amps = Watts / Voltage (12 If a 12 volt battery)
The Solar Panels
We purchased Zamp 80P solar panels and used them for the first time on a recent trip that ended in a National Park in Kentucky. Zamp was chosen because the camper was already wired for it, they appear to be of high quality, and are 100% waterproof.
Zamp Solar Panels in case
The photo below shows what the inside looks like when opened. Inside is the controller, cord, and fold-out adjustable legs. It also comes with an adapter to hook directly to a 12 volt battery, but we did not need it.
Zamp 80P Solar Panels
The Charging Environment
We had a one night stay in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and hooked up the panels, but we arrived late and left early the next day. It was cooler there and the Norcold cooler did not have to run as much. It was too short a time to really make an assessment.
The last two days of our trip was in Kentucky at Mammoth Cave Campground with no electricity. We had a shaded site, but there was quite a bit of sun on the asphalt pull through. We did not have an extension cord, but I can see the valve of having one in the future. However, by moving the panels as the sun moved, we were able to get as high as 4.0 amps for part of the day.
It was Kentucky in the late summer, so it was predictably hot—low nineties in the day and low seventies at night. The heat worsened the issues we had with the solar panels and the Norcold. Cooler weather might have made a big difference.
Preserving the Battery
The 12 volt battery can be destroyed if allowed to go too low. So, it is not a bad idea to have a voltage meter to monitor activity. This link is for an inexpensive one that can be ordered from Walmart. It plugs directly into the 12 volt receptacle on the inside and also the back of our T@G. The solar panel controller also monitors battery voltage.
The table below shows the voltage and related state of charge for a 12 volt battery. The battery should stay in the green zone to provide the longest life. The Zamp controller will show the battery in a warning state if it dips below 12.5 volts.
Voltage and State of Charge
Set-Up
The Zamp instructions stated that you must have the correct battery type indicated on the controller or you could damage your battery. My husband tells me that ours is a wet battery and AGM is the default, so I had to change it. The lower black button on the right on the controller changes the battery type. Once you change the type, it retains the information.
Setting up the panels is very easy. First, open the panels and pull out the legs. Next, position the panels so they are directly facing the sun. Then, plug the cord directly into the external receptacle on the driver’s side of the case that holds the battery and propane. You must press it in firmly. (See photo below). You are now ready to go. As soon as the cord is plugged into the receptacle during daylight, the panels will begin working and the controller will begin displaying data.
Connecting to the battery
Cord plugged into camper receptacle
The Data
The controller has three lights that provide information about the charging status and three lights that reflect the condition of the battery.
In the photo below, charging is occurring (red light) and is providing a charge to the battery (blue light), and the battery voltage is above 12.5 volts (green light). This is how the controller looked most of the time we were using the solar panels.
Zamp Controller
Below is a table from the manual that explains how to interpret what the lights mean that are on the controller.
Controller Table of Information
Red Charging Status: When receiving sunlight, the light is always red, however the light will flash when the solar panel is weak. It is unlit if it is dark and there is no charging occurring.
Blue Charging Indicator: This light is on when the battery is being charged.
Green Float Charge Indicator: This light indicates that float charging is occurring. It would mean that battery is fully charged and is being maintained at a safe level. A wet battery is fully charged at 13.6 volts. This light did not come on while we were using the panels.
Battery Condition Green: Battery is above 12.5 Volts (+-0.2V). For most of the time we were using our solar panels, this light was on.
Battery Condition Yellow: Battery is below 12.5 Volts and above 11.5 Volts (+-0.02V). We saw the yellow light several times when the Norcold cooler was running.
Battery Condition Red: Battery is below 11.5 Volts (+-0.02V). Thankfully, we did not see this light on during our usage of the panels.
Amp/Volt Button: Pressing this button toggles between displaying the current battery voltage, the charging current, and charged capacity (Amp-hour).
Results on this Trip
On our first night, we only had a few hours of limited sunlight. When the sunlight was greatly reduced and the Norcold was running, the yellow light came on. We feared we would damage our battery if we ran the cooler or used the fan, so we turned off the power from the battery.
The next day, we had many hours of sunlight and were obtaining as much as 4 amps and I was hopeful we could run the fan that night. We ran the Norcold all day, charged our electronics, and played music on the DVD using Bluetooth and music on my phone. A couple of times in the hotter part of the day, the yellow battery light came on, but when the Norcold stopped running, the battery light would eventually move to green.
Monitoring the solar panels
However, when the sun was down, the battery light stayed yellow and there was no charge occurring. Also, an (E) light was showing on the Norcold. This appears to be a safety measure. We felt our only choice was to turn off the power so we endured another hot night without the fan.
Load Analysis
As we clearly have issues trying to run the items we planned, a reader suggested that a load analysis would be helpful. Below are the 12 Volt items in our camper and the amount of energy each uses in an hour. There is also a column estimating the number of hours in a day they would be used and a projected daily total.
Because there are some solar options like solar power generators, I added a chart for items that we use when camping that run on 110. We are a long way from such a solution, but I like knowing how much energy the items draw.
Camper Load Analysis
It is clear from reviewing the 12 volt list that the Norcold is a major energy hog, claiming an estimated 43% of the total daily energy. Converter amps would also be significantly lower without the Norcol, saving perhaps 8 amps. If we use an ice chest instead of the Norcol, our estimated daily amps goes down to approximately 37. This is a much more reasonable number, considering our current equipment.
Increasing Energy Capacity
There are several ways to increase energy capacity if not happy with amount of power the solar panels provide.
Increase battery capacity. Our battery only provides only 65 amps, but the same brand produces a similar battery with 105 amps. This would be a significant improvement over the current battery. (The battery does weigh a little more than the current one.)
Change battery configuration to two 6 V batteries. This works much better than 12 V for dry camping. The 6 V’s have 600-700 life cycles as compared to the 12 V’s 100-150. Amps would be ample at 180 or up to 220 amp hours per battery. However, they are they are more expensive and it is likely modifications would be needed to make the two batteries fit in an existing camper. They are taller than 12 V batteries, but have a similar footprint. (A reader of this post stated they had great results using two 6 V batteries.)
Purchase higher solar panel wattage. Our panels are 80 watts and can produce a max of 4.6 amps per hour. This is not a lot of capacity if sunshine is limited.
Purchase a portable solar power generator. This is a pricey option, but it enables the use of 110 items and also it would be a good item to have at home during power outages. They are cleaner and safer than a generator. (I think I want one!). Two brands appear to be dominant in the market, the Inergy Kodiak and the Gold Zero Lithium Yeti System. Each can charge with solar panels or a wall outlet. A good comparison of the two systems can be found on YouTube.
Lessons Learned
While the solar panels did not provide adequate charging for our needs on this trip, I feel we can take what we have learned and make some changes for future success. We will make the following changes next time we are dry camping.
Substitute a high-quality cooler for the Norcold. We were fighting a losing battle trying to use the Norcold in ninety-degree weather. The Norcold might work with the panels in a much cooler environment, but we will not be expecting to use it when dry camping in the future.
Purchase an extension cord for the panels. It is clear that it would be handy in some situations.
(Perhaps) purchase a portable solar power generator.
I look forward to another opportunity to use the solar panels and will update this post on our resources page with any new information.
This upcoming trip will last almost a month and cover over 5,000 miles. Previously, our longest trip was only one week and just a few hundred miles. This post covers how we tackled the planning for this much longer trip.
This long trip in our teardrop begins along the U.S. southwestern border. Our return back east is along a bit more northern path. It is a cool weather trip and therefore, our desire is to camp in areas with milder weather.
Long Trip Planning Framework
Limit driving to approximately three to five hours a day.
Extend the trip all the way to California with camping in the path of our destination primarily near the southwestern border to minimize the impact of cold weather.
Travel a slightly more northern route on the return home to visit other states.
Stay overnight in as many states as possible. We have a goal of camping in all the lower 48 states and we have a long way to go to reach that goal.
Travel early in the day to avoid driving at night and having to set up in the dark.
Campsites will be simple without the use of a lot of outdoor amenities as we will not be staying long in any single spot. We purchased a smaller side tent for this trip as it is easier to use.
Cooking will be minimal as well, with most breakfasts at the campsites and a late lunch out in the local area. We want to avoid chain restaurants and experience some of the better cuisine in each area. Very small snacks such as fruit or popcorn will be our dinner. We hope to lose a little weight on the trip or at least not gain any.
Visit a couple of special areas that are off the path: Moab, Utah and Alabama Hills, California. I was blown away by photos posted by some campers of those spots and we determined it was worth driving extra miles to visit. If it later becomes too much, we can omit one or both of these stops.
Expect to do laundry and buy groceries. This means that packing will not have to include many more clothes than packed on previous trips. Food initially packed will be breakfast and snacking options. Below is a link to our post on packing for teardrop camping.
Once we had a framework, defining the stops on the trip was just finding places on the map that offered good camping options within the miles we would travel in a day. We wanted to stay near towns and cities with a priority to those we have never seen or have wanted to visit.
Reservations
One big question: to reserve or not to reserve? We have read about campers who just find overnight places as they go along. This is appealing because on a long trip with many stops, you may want to stay more or less time than you would plan. I also worried that if everything is reserved and something happens to your plans, it could be quite costly. Additionally, reservations would remove that stay longer or leave early option. Ultimately, we did a hybrid. We reserved the first few sites close to our departure date because we were fairly certain of how long we would be at those stops. After those few stops, we are winging it!
A written document details all our planned stops. As time permitted, I would work on a new location. This included researching camping options, restaurants, and activities in the area. I also put our stops on a map. This has helped to make this trip come alive for us before we left. I think it has also helped to make us more prepared.
Additional Long Trip Considerations
Mail: Our neighbor normally gets our mail when we travel, but we did not want to ask for such a long trip. The Postal Service will put a hold on your mail and we are using this option.
Medications: We had to do some advance filling of prescriptions to ensure an adequate supply over several weeks.
Indoor plants: We have requested a family member to assist with this task.
Avoid Water Issues: Turn off hot and cold water to washing machine while away to avoid leaking hoses. This recommendation was from a member of a Facebook camping group.
Bill Paying: Extra concern has be taken to ensure that critical bills do not go unpaid while we are not be seeing our mail. We paid up as many bills as we could prior to leaving. We also set a few reminders to ensure that those expected to be issued while we were gone were handled.
Set travel notices: Notified bank and credit company when and where we will be traveling.
Tow Vehicle and Camper Maintenance: Oil changes, tire rotation, and replacement wiper blades were part of our preparation. Also, overall safety checks of both camper and vehicle.
Supplemental Heating: As this is a cold weather trip with many unknowns, we needed more than our usual electric blanket option. We purchased a small ceramic heater for our travels.
Clothing for Various Weather: Typical expected weather is highs in 60s and lows in the 30s. However, warmer days and cooler nights may occur. Layered clothing , plus coats, hats, and gloves are part of our preparations.
A lot of planning has gone into this trip. Let’s hope that it helps it to go smoother. We will post our adventures along the way and assess how well this plan works. We are excited, but just a teeny bit apprehensive as we have only been camping about eighteen months and this is very new territory for us.
We decorated our camper for Christmas this year at a Tiny Christmas Campout, an event that was held at Big Lagoon State Park in Pensacola, Florida.
‘Tiny Christmas Campout
This was one of the first camping trips we booked after becoming teardroppers. Since mid-January, we have been looking forward to a camping trip with lots of teardrops decorated for Christmas. The campout was scheduled for early December in Pensacola, Florida at Big Lagoon State Park.
The Campout also featured a decorating contest. Decorating is not our forte, but we gave it our best efforts. Our T@G is blue and grey, so we went with blue Christmas decorations. On this trip, our 10x 10 screen room was much needed for two reasons: it gave us a heated area to hang out in and was an area we could decorate.
Our Santa tables
We had a very small Christmas tree. The presents below were for the Dirty Santa gift exchange at the potluck dinner later that evening.
Tiny Christmas tree
We did not do much with the inside of our camper, but we did have a Christmas pillow.
Inside of camper
My friend Trish painted some wine glasses with our camper on them and some coasters with a tiny camper. We really love them.
Teardrop wine glasses
We placed lights on the front of the camper, which did not do much for daylight viewing, but it looked pretty cool at night.
Our decorated campsite
The Decorating Contest
Sadly, we did not have the best decorated site. There were several sites much better than ours, but it was still a good experience. We actually put far more effort into decorating our camper than we did in our house. We also met a lot of really nice people and it got us into the Christmas spirit.
This was the first ever event of this kind and there will likely be one again next year. I highly recommend it! For those who are interested, I did a write up for the event this year and it is expected to appear in the January issue of Cool Tears magazine.
Wishing you a very merry Christmas and a new year filled with wonderful camping adventures!
Update
I wrote about this event and it was included Cool Tears, Cool Tears Magazine. Check it out, if interested.
This is a very basic guide for first-time users. The Jensen TV and DVD player work much like what you have at home. The biggest difference is that you must scan for channels when you move to a different location.
Our Jensen TV
Our T@G teardrop camper, which we purchased a year ago, came equipped with a Jensen TV and DVD player. We have used it, in some fashion, on every trip we have taken. However, we are not experts. I know that some campers have very sophisticated equipment and powerful antennas and that is not us.
I am writing this post because I occasionally see questions about this topic. Also, I try to think about what I would like to have had as a resource when we began camping. If this is too basic, I apologize.
TV Input
The input for reception is located near the water and electrical outlet on the camper. It is the open circular receptacle at the top left and is used for both cable and antenna input.
Cable/antenna input
Step 1, Antenna
For television viewing, the first step is to connect to a source for reception.
Much of our camping has been in State Parks or U.S. Corps of Engineers campgrounds where cable is often not provided. However, it has been my experience to find cable in commercial campgrounds. The set up for cable and air antennas is similar.
For cable, you need to have your own cable to attach to the campground cable block. It is generally found on the power pedestal. Your cable links the campground cable source to the cable receptor on your camper.
If no cable is provided, you can use a variety of air antennas. We purchased one at our RV dealership. It was over a hundred dollars, bulky, and did not work any better than one my husband devised. It is based on one he saw on one of the Facebook camping groups. A photo of it,which I used for this demonstration is below.
Air antenna
Step 2, Jensen TV Input
Next, the input for the TV should be set to “TV”. This can be done by selecting source on your remote or the source button on the bottom of your TV.
You are now ready to scan for available channels. Select menu on the Jensen remote or by press the menu button on the bottom of the TV to do this.
Jensen Menu Screen
Step 3
Use the right arrow on the remote to highlight “Channel” and press enter to select it.
Arrow down to “Air/Cable” and select the option you need. The photo above shows air, but you can also select cable in the top line. Once you have selected the appropriate option, arrow down and hit enter to begin “Auto Scan”.
Channel scan in progress
We did the scan for this demonstration in our basement and found nine channels. Once the scan ends, the first channel that was found is tuned to your television. As you can see from the photo below, the reception was not bad.
One of the available channels
As long as you remain in the same location, you will have access to the channels identified in the scan, even after turning off the TV. When you move to a new campsite, you will have to perform the scan function again.
Jensen TV and DVD Basics
We often would rather watch movies than regular television. We either pick up Redbox movies or bring movies from home.
Jensen DVD
We were sad to learn that our player does not play Blue Ray and our newer movies at home are Blue Ray. Be sure that you rent or bring regular DVDs if you do not have a Blue Ray player.
Set the input to AV to play a DVD.
A positive aspect with DVDs, is that you are able to use the speakers installed in the cabin.
A special Jensen Remote is required for DVD operation.
The DVD player will play music via Bluetooth. I have music on my phone and it works well with the player.
AM\FM is available on the player.
There is also a clock and an alarm, but we have never used it.
Apple TV
We sometimes watch Netflix on Apple TV. Apple TV also connects to other options, such as HULU.
We connect the Apple cable to the HDMI plug on the back of the TV.
To watch Apple TV, you must be connected to a network. We use the hotspot on our phone for the network. Don’t do this if you don’t have available data as overages can be costly. We increased our data package recently, so this is an available option.
Set the input source on the TV to HDMI.
You must have the Apple remote as well.
Input Source
Below is a photo of the input options. We have not used all of them, but I will summarize the ones we currently use.
TV, for cable or air antenna television viewing
AV, for DVD viewing
HDMI, for Apple TV, when plugged into HDMI receptacle on TV
Henson input options
Remotes
Below is a photo of Jensen TV remote and the DVD remote. For us, Apple TV brings a third remote. It can be a bit much, but we do like to be entertained.
Jensen remotes
Jenson TV Support
Below is a link to Jenson RV Direct. It could be handy to have if you need additional information or if you have any issues with your Jensen TV.
We received information on the operation of our camper at the time of purchase. Also, they briefly covered the Jensen TV. However, a month later in our first trip out, we were a little fuzzy on what to do with the TV. First Camping Trip We managed to get things going, but there was some trial and error. I hope this post is helpful to new campers.
In Conclusion
If you would like to read about other things we have learned during our camping adventures, we now have a resources page for new campers. Also, we recently dropped our cable services at home and purchased Roku devices for streaming. Our monthly cable costs were $114, but now the streaming costs are $40, a savings of $74. So, if you are interested in converting to streaming, check out our post Cable Cutting, A Retirement Cost Savings Strategy
Update
Would you like to be able to watch shows and movies on your television when in remote areas with no cell or Internet service. If yes, check out my latest post, How to Use Your Phone to Watch TV. The input source would be HDMI for this option.
A bathroom was on our list of “must haves” for a camper. We ultimately purchased the NuCamp T@G for many good reasons, but having no toilet required a major adaptation on my part.
Purchase of Camper with No Toilet
I am a newly-retired, former accounting professional, newbie camper who has never been particularly outdoorsy. We wanted to give camping a try, but did not initially consider campers with no toilets. I felt that having no toilet was just too much sacrifice. However, we settled on our T@G, which has no toilet. We chose it because it fits in our basement and is easily pulled by our tow vehicle.
For some readers, this post may be TMI, but I would have liked to have read something like this when we first considered our camper and in the early days of our camping.
The biggest challenge for me would be to adapt to very uncertain and varied bathroom options. I was not worried about showering at campsites, but I was worried about how I would handle getting up in the middle of the night, which happens often.
We have been on nine camping trips to ten different campsites and I can honestly say that I am far more comfortable with camping in our T@G, but it has been a process.
Worst Nightime Experience
This occurred on our first camping trip. On the first night, I had a flashlight handy and had checked out the bathhouse location in the daylight, so felt I was as ready as I could be for my nocturnal trip. The bathhouse was down a trail with a couple of turns. It was well-lit, so I had no trouble finding it. Coming back, I took a wrong turn and ended up in a different area. I could have wandered around for quite awhile, but recognized one of our friend’s campers, which helped me navigate to ours.
The next night I used a five-gallon bucket filled with kitty litter and topped with a toilet lid. (This was our very low-tech solution.) It was in a tent on our campsite and was far better than hiking in the woods. Despite the convenience, I did not like the cleanup.
New Strategy—Camp Near a Restroom
This strategy actually worked very well! Compared to hiking through the woods, walking a short distance to a bathhouse you could see from your campsite was easy. I stayed with this strategy through several camping trips and will use it again whenever it is a good option.
It was not a good option on a trip with a group of our friends. We booked our sites early and they had prime spots. I chose not to stay in their area because it was not near a restroom. Our area was not as shady as theirs, had far more bugs, and we were not able to be where the action was with them. This got me to thinking another option was needed.
Next Strategy—A Porta Potty
A friend had been suggesting that I get a porta potty since we began camping, but I had been resisting. Concerned that dealing with cleanup would be gross, but ready to give it a try, I bought one on line. Also, having discovered that we did not always have the option to set up a tent, we bought a privacy tent.
I was also a little bit intimidated about how they worked. However, I will go into some detail here for those who may be unfamiliar with them. The one we purchased seems pretty standard. There is a top section where water is stored for flushing and a bottom section for waste. We also use holding tank deodorant and it works very well; there is no unpleasant smell.
Disassembled Porta Potty
Our Setup
The photo above shows the potty we purchased disassembled. Upon arrival at campsite you just fill the section on the right with water and the attach it to the section on the left. Then toss in one of the deodorant packs into the bottom section. When utilizing it, you pull out the lever on the bottom and when finished, you press the waffle valve on the top to flush. You then close the lever on the bottom.
Cleanup was not bad at all. My husband volunteered to handle it, but as I am the primary user, I felt I should do it. It was far easier to use and clean than I feared. The assembled product is below.
Assembled Porta Potty
This gave me such flexibility! I no longer worried about being near the restrooms. We always brought the new equipment when we were uncertain about the closeness of campsite facilities, though sometimes we did not take it out of the box. We could camp at the best sites with our friends. Our little privacy tent goes up and down very easily and we were set.
Privacy tent/toilet
You would think that with our new equipment and my adaptation to using them that having a camper with no toilet would be a non-issue. However, we have encountered one other situation that is not resolved. Here is a link to a tent identical to the one we purchased.
The No Tents Dilemma
We recently camped with friends at a beautiful RV Resort. Upon arrival, we learned that no tents were allowed, not even a privacy tent. I raised it a couple of times with management and they were not budging. We were not near a restroom, but we were only there a couple of nights. We were with friends and I decided to just make the best of it. It was a pretty far hike for the middle of the night, but it was well-lit and easy to navigate. Fortunately, my previous trips trekking to restrooms has made me flexible about nightime walks.
Summary
The fact that our camper has no toilet is no longer a big deal. I could not have said this at the beginning of this journey. We love our T@G and the economy it brings to our camping trips. For those who are first considering camping with no toilet, I offer the following recommendations:
Be open to new experiences. If you want to adapt, I believe you can. Also, this is camping, not luxury travel. It has its own kind of special beauty, but it is not primarily about the comfort.
Remember that you are getting a lot on the plus side with a teardrop. Light, easy towing and the ability to conveniently store in your garage. That was worth a lot to us.
Always look for the close restroom option when it works for you. No bathroom to clean at all; how cool is that?
Don’t wait to get a porta potty. They are easy to set up, use, and break down.
When booking campsites, always get a clear understanding of any restrictions related to tents. I suspect this would be primarily related to RV resorts. You may want to go anyway, but it is a good idea to know what to expect.
Enjoy your camper and embrace new adventures!
We now have a camping resources page for new campers. You might want to check it out.
